You're in a local violin
shop looking for that perfect violin. After an afternoon of testing
instruments, you come across "the one." The perfect violin outfit in
appearance, sound, and price. Excitedly, you pay the dealer, and return
home thrilled with your new investment.
The process resembles any
other major purchase inmany ways—you research, list your needs,
schedule test drives, and finally make an educated decision. But there's
one big difference: Your violin doesn't come with an owner's manual.
No FAQ list for resolving such mysteries as: Why does my instrument
buzz when I play open strings? How do I tell if my bridge is warped
or just falling forward? And how do I clean sweat off my fingerboard?
Here are five problems and
solutions that will help players of any level trouble-shoot the quirks
of violin ownership.
Installing
and Caring for Strings
So, it's time to replace
your old strings. Sometimes this simple task can seem overwhelming.
Should you remove all the strings together? Or should you unwind only
one at a time, replacing them as you go (and if so, where do you start)?
"When you need to change an entire set of strings, don't remove all
of the old strings at one time—you could lose the correct bridge
placement," says Richard Ward of Ifshin Violins in Berkeley, California.
"Lack of tension can cause the soundpost to fall, something no violinist
wants to be faced with."
When changing strings, here's
a good guide to follow:
• Remove one string
at a time, starting with the highest or lowest string, while keeping
the remaining strings up to pitch.
• Be sure the fine
tuner for the string you are about to install is loosened. Drop the
ball end of the new string through the fine tuner cartridge. If you
don't have fine tuners, thread the string through the string hole in
the tailpiece until the ball fastens in place.
• Thread the first
string through the hole in the corresponding peg. Wind the string evenly
from the center of the peg to just before the edge of the pegbox. Tighten
slowly, tuning while you go. Stop when you fall into the correct tonal
range, and use the fine tuner—if applicable—to fine-tune the
pitch.
• Repeat these same
steps until all the strings have been replaced.
Sometimes new strings may
break after installation. If this happens, Ward recommends taking note
of where the string broke. "A violin can develop a rough spot at the
peg, the nut, or the fine tuner," he says. "In addition, if the wound
string is too close to the wall of the pegbox, it may be under too much
tension and stress, causing it to snap. Lubricating the grooves on the
nut and bridge with a No. 2 pencil will reduce the chance of string
breakage."
How
to Deal with Bow Bugs
Bow bugs are the bane of
many musicians. From the Dermestidae family of beetles, their Greek
name literally means "skin eater." These little critters can get into
your instrument case and wreak havoc by munching on bow hair and leaving
randomly broken strands in their wake. It's nearly impossible to see
the bugs themselves. But as they mature, bow bugs shed their outer skins,
leaving telltale casings.
The good news is that most
musicians who play regularly will never experience this problem. Bow
bugs hate light and prefer to settle in dark places, such as cases that
remain unopened for long periods of time.
If bow bugs do get inside
your case, you can get rid of them by following a few simple steps.
Former editor Mary VanClay has suggested that you remove the instrument
and bow, then thoroughly vacuum the empty case, using a narrow nozzle
to get into every nook and cranny. Leave the case open in indirect sunlight
for a few days.
Strings reader Stephen
Bacon of Bellwood Violin in Ashland, Oregon, also suggests putting ten
to 15 drops of rosemary oil (a natural repellent) along the interior
seams of the case. "But be careful not to put any oil in places where
it could make direct contact with the wood of the instrument or bow."
If you're going on a vacation
without your instrument, store your bow outside of the case (in a safe
spot, away from sunlight) where the hair can breathe. If you'll be away
for an extended period, have the bow hair removed and leave the bow
stick safely in your case until you're ready to play again.
In most instances, these
simple steps will fix the bow-bug problem. However, if you still find
evidence of the pests, you may have a serious infestation on your hands.
Unfortunately, the only real course of action is to rehair your bow
and purchase a new case.
How
to Clean Your Instrument
Instrument maker and Strings
contributor James N. McKean says, "It takes a professional touch to
clean a violin properly—it is difficult to know where the grime
ends and the varnish begins."
The best course of action
is to prevent dirt from accumulating in the first place. Carry a soft
cloth in your case, and use it both before and after playing to help
keep your instrument free of dust and rosin—as well as corrosive
sweat and sticky fingers.
Try to avoid cleaning the
fingerboard yourself. "The only effective cleaner is alcohol, and it
will run off onto the top [of the instrument] faster than you can believe,"
says McKean. Instead, use a soft cloth to clean the strings and fingerboard
by wrapping the cloth around your thumb and forefinger. Then run it
up and down each string (the sound is horrible, but it will pick up
excess rosin). Finally, carefully polish between the strings, close
to the peg box and underneath each string.
How
to Fix a Tilting Bridge
Nearly every stringed musician
faces this problem during his or her career. The repeated action of
tightening strings during tuning tends to tilt a bridge toward the scroll.
Check the bridge regularly—and make sure that the back is perpendicular
to the body of the instrument. The bridge's feet should conform perfectly
to the arch of the instrument's belly.
If you notice that your
bridge is tilting, you can fix this simple problem yourself. (However,
if you are nervous about it, take the instrument to a dealer.) To align
the bridge, loosen the pegs allowing only the slightest bit of slack
in the stings. Position the violin on your lap with the bridge facing
up, scroll away from you, and the endbutton at your navel. Grasp the
bridge between the thumb and forefinger of both hands. Very carefully
and slowly pull the bridge toward you in small increments. Check after
each nudge to make sure you haven't overcompensated for the problem
(or you'll have a backward tilting bridge).
If the bridge still appears
to be tilting forward, especially if there is a curl from the feet to
the notches on top—chances are it is warped. A healthy bridge should
stand straight up from the instrument's body.
Detecting
and Deciphering Buzzes
Buzzes can be a common and
irritating occurrence. To locate the source of unwanted sounds, here
are some places to look:
• Check for open seams
between the ribs and the instrument's top and back (be sure to look
under good light).
• Make sure the bridge
isn't loose.
• The strings should
fit over the bridge and into the pegbox without any obstructions.
• Sometimes the string
notches at the top nut are too wide or too low (this causes buzzes on
open strings). To fix this, loosen the string and place a small, thin
piece of paper between the string and the top nut, then retighten the
string.
• Verify that the strings
properly wind over the pegs (see Installing and Caring for Strings,
above).
• Check the f-holes
for dust—occasionally buildup will cause buzzing.
• Are any parts on
top of the instrument touching the wood?
• Make sure your chin
rest and tailpiece are securely fastened.
• Do the fine tuners
rattle when you play?
• If you have a mute
on your instrument, make sure it is securely fastened—or simply
remove it when it is not needed.
