your instrument
Excerpted from Strings magazine, May/June 2003, No. 110.

 

 

When Good Tone Goes Bad

What should a player do when an instrument loses its tone?

by James Cave





It's a common complaint: "My violin has lost its sound. It used to sound so much better. What happened?" We've all gone through this at one time or another or had a colleague who did so. Just what does happen? At least three major factors can be a part of this situation: The instrument has developed a minor short-term problem requiring maintenance; the instrument has a serious long-term problem and/or is somehow defective; or the player's standards are changing.

Fearing the worst, the player assumes a major problem exists. Fortunately that is the least likely suspect. Here are some helpful hints:

Minor Problems

Virtually everything associated with the instrument can affect the tone or response. Most problems are minor, with normal maintenance issues being the most likely cause.

Gluing may be required: Seams will open. Glue joints become weakened with dryness and age. The instrument vibrates and wooden parts expand and shrink with temperature and humidity changes. A seam may be open enough to prevent proper transmission of vibration but not open enough to buzz. The opening will increase until it begins to buzz in dry weather, closing up in humid weather. Eventually it buzzes all the time.

Tail gut: This is an essential element and often overlooked. The tail gut is a length of nylon cord or other material that fastens the tailpiece in place. Has it been replaced recently? Changing the tail gut length will affect the string length between the bridge and the tailpiece. In turn, this may affect the instrument's tone. The tail-gut arms should flow over the saddle in a smooth, straight manner. If either or both arms are pushed to the side the tailpiece may not vibrate properly.

Endpin: Make sure the endpin is pushed all the way in. Also, different endpins can significantly change the way a cello or bass sounds.

Chin rest/tailpiece/pegs: Switching between ebony, rosewood, and boxwood can change the sound. The best choice is the one that makes your instrument sound its best. Just because someone else changed from ebony to boxwood and got a nice improvement does not mean your instrument will respond in the same way.

Strings: Have you changed them? The overall quality of strings today is amazing but perhaps you got a bad string. It happens occasionally and one bad string can affect the entire range.

Soundpost: It may have shifted a bit. Just bumping the case on a doorjamb, driving over a speed bump, or long periods of highway vibration can do it. Do you have a new soundpost? Length, degree of fit, and position are not the only factors involved. Grain structure and diameter are also important.

Bridge: Lots of possibilities here. A bridge can move, changing its relationship to the soundpost. At times, the top of the bridge can be pulled forward by string friction. This lifts the back edge of the feet from the top of the instrument. As a result, the pressure shifts to the front edge of the bridge, concentrating onto a smaller area of the top, and effectively changing the relative position of the bridge and soundpost. If left uncorrected this leads to warping of the bridge.

Have you changed bridge protectors? Even that can affect some instruments. Has anyone trimmed or filed any part of the bridge? A well-tuned bridge does not like to be detuned. Check the string grooves. A pinched string can affect the entire range and make an instrument very cranky.

Fingerboard: Washboard ripples—slight indentations caused by repeatedly pressing the strings—will make everything awkward. You'll find it more and more difficult to play in tune and fifths become almost impossible.

String adjuster or fine tuner: Yes, seriously! I have seen a few instruments that did not like a certain design of string adjuster. One metal design created to avoid digging into the top of highly arched instruments extends from the tailpiece almost to the bridge. The design hampers vibration of all the strings and tailpiece from the bridge back to the endpin.

Rosin and dirt: A serious buildup of rosin can affect the sound. Rosin and dirt can collect where the soundholes narrow at the top and bottom. This buildup can cause buzzing, or prevent the top from vibrating properly.

Climate: Temporary changes in temperature and humidity may affect the instrument, some violins being more sensitive than others. Touring may be a problem with a particularly sensitive instrument. Resist the temptation to make constant adjustments. They can only make the situation worse. Those living in areas with dramatic seasonal climate changes should consult a good shop. A dehumidifier or hygrometer may prove helpful. However, a dehumidifier can cause more damage than good if not scrupulously maintained. Would you feel comfortable being subjected to periodic bouts of high humidity followed by dry spells? A stable condition is better than one that constantly changes. With some instruments, different bridges and soundposts for summer and winter may be in order.

Major Problems

Most players fear long-lasting problems, yet they are the least likely to occur. Most cracks, if properly repaired, have little or no effect on sound. Even serious damage to the ribs has little long-term effect. There is little to fear, assuming proper repairs have been done by a competent person, and the instrument may sound better after the repair.

Still, some problems can create definite changes in the instrument. Occasionally a neck/fingerboard will drop, usually because of major climate changes. A violin with a too-low neck will lack volume and the tone generally will be reedy and nasal. Raising the angle will increase volume and clarity. A new neck or fingerboard will change the sound, sometimes dramatically. Whether the change will be for better or worse cannot normally be determined in advance.

Bass bar: A new bass bar will likely change the sound. My experience is that a weak bass bar produces an overly refined sound that lacks vigor. A good bar produces a strong and healthy sound. It sounds like the same instrument, but now finally awake. A bar with too much wood in it will generally create a brighter sound but with less clarity and slower response.

Thin top: One serious problem that's almost impossible to cure is the result of a top being too thin. The instrument may have left the maker's hands that way or it may be an older instrument that has been thinned (regraduated) in order to sell it. In general terms, the thinner the top and back, the darker the timbre—the fewer upper harmonics in the sound envelope—and the louder the instrument. Thinning the top is an easy path for a neophyte maker and a quick fix for a dealer trying to get rid of an older instrument that doesn't sound very good. Unfortunately, once a certain point has been passed the tone will not stand up to time and usage. The instrument will sound good for a while but will gradually lose its tone.

An exact figure for "too thin" is impossible to determine. Perfection by one maker may be too thin for others. Antonio Stradivari is famous for having created quality sound using thicknesses too thin for most other makers. Modeling, arching height, wood resonance, wood strength, graduation method, and other elements affect strength. The wood fibers must be strong enough to withstand normal string tension and still be able to vibrate freely and with quality throughout the instrument's frequency range. If the instrument is straining to withstand string pressure it will have little reserve strength left with which to vibrate properly.

As an analogy, think of the string tension and pressure on the violin as a heavy pack on your back. Walking and running are the equivalent of the violin playing. With a 20-lb. load you will be able to run. Decrease your strength sufficiently (as by thinning an instrument too much) and you may still be able to support the load and walk, but running becomes difficult. You may be able to do it for a while but eventually the over-stressed body just does not cooperate fully. You may recover somewhat by removing or decreasing the load (as by relaxing the strings). Unfortunately a violin does not build new strength with exercise and training. Once the full load is picked up again the problem repeats itself.

Some guidelines may help: If the instrument has good volume, projects well, has a gutsy and focused bass, sparkles at the top and does not have a harsh, brittle treble, you have a good instrument. If the notes have sparkle and resonance all the way up on all the strings, go no further.

Someone got it right.

If the bass has great volume under the ear and seems to be dark like chocolate, be careful. Those notes probably sound like pudding instead of pearls to the audience. In addition, be very careful if the treble is harsh or if the notes seem to die halfway up the fingerboard on all the strings. These are symptoms of a top that may be too thin. A competent and trusted repairperson can be very helpful in diagnosing this problem.

The Player

The most interesting and least discussed factor regarding loss of tone lies within the player. With a new instrument you listen very carefully to your own sound. You hear all kinds of things, just as you listen more closely and hear things when you get a new car, or when the car has just come back from the mechanic. Strings lose their freshness, the weather changes, the bridge moves, and suddenly you have a crisis.

Panic time.

Or you may begin to work with colleagues with better technique and instruments. To your ears it seems that your instrument does not sound as good as previously. The violin has not changed, but it is being compared to a better class of instruments. At the same time, your own sense of sound may be changing with greater exposure to better players and instruments. Again, your violin seems to be getting worse every day. Einstein would understand this bit of musical relativity. A good repairperson can bring the instrument to its optimum capability but the only permanent cure is to find a better violin.

This article covers only some of the ways your instrument may change. Most are temporary and few are catastrophic. Should you need professional repairs please entrust your beloved instrument only to a competent person. Let the inexperienced practice with someone else's violin.

 


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